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Freerides on a cheater race ski - after removing plates?

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  • Freerides on a cheater race ski - after removing plates?

    I'm looking for a hard-snow focussed rock ski to mount with Freerides and found a Head iSupershape Magnum in the right length a few towns away. Price and condition are right but the problem is it has a plate that's predrilled for Tyrolia alpine bindings which likely would interfere with the Freeride holes - as shown in the stock photo here: https://www.skimag.com/gear/head-isu...pe-magnum-2013 .

    Seller of these Heads says the plate comes off leaving a flat ski, which I could then drill for the tele pattern. Anyone tried this? With what results?

    I tried the Freerides once on top of the plate of a Fischer race ski of some sort, it was way too planky - or I was just not strong enough for that ski.

    I'd rather just find something that's flat to begin with but Craigslist is failing me.




  • #2
    Get 'em. See if you can mount the Freeride to the plate without conflict. You might get away with it. If the holes in the plate conflict, nuke it and mount directly to the ski. Easy.

    ain't no turn like tele!

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Dostie View Post
      Get 'em. See if you can mount the Freeride to the plate without conflict. You might get away with it. If the holes in the plate conflict, nuke it and mount directly to the ski. Easy.
      Thanks.

      I meant the OTHER Craigslist is failing me. Not you.

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      • #4
        Absolutely (what Craig said), and if you end up having to remove the plate, replace it with the Rotte Freeride riser - you'll need the height.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Paul Lutes View Post
          Absolutely (what Craig said), and if you end up having to remove the plate, replace it with the Rotte Freeride riser - you'll need the height.
          Thanks for the tip. Looks like I'm picking these up Sunday.

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          • #6
            Got the skis, the risers are on order, and now a question on mounting position.

            Reason for the question is there's a set of holes in the topsheet that interferes with front two holes of the new binding pattern, so I've gotta drill a little under 1cm forward or back from boot center. Good news is that I'm using Rottie Freerides on the pink plate so it's easy to adjust boot position between the three positions on the pink plate.

            Question is, do I drill forward or back to get around those two holes?

            Based on personal experience with other skis, I'd put it back 1 cm. I've had these Freerides on several other skis and usually felt more dialed in the furthest back position, sometimes center, but never ever in the front position. So mounting these skis roughly 1 cm back from the center mark would put the center hole of the pink plate where I usually like it, and I could put it to the forward position to get back to true boot center.

            But my personal experience is all on longer and longer radius skis (18-21m), never anything this short (170cm/13.5m). So in the spirit of measuring twice, cutting once, and procrastinating on a Monday morning, I wonder if anyone has a different take.

            Thanks,

            - Ted
            Last edited by ts01; 18th November 2019, 12:29 PM.

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            • #7
              This is turning into a bit of a blog but to close it out if anyone finds this in a search ...

              They skied really nicely with the Head plate removed - great edge grip but not planky tip to tail. Highly recommend a setup like this for anyone skiing eastern hardpack and smaller hills.

              Risers were key - otherwise the brakes would be hitting the snow when they're on edge. And they're always on edge. OK flat on a slow cat track but other than that they really want to sproing from turn to turn.

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              • #8
                damn - missed your previous post re mount location: did you end up mounting forward or back from the center mark? My belated response is to mount forward. Almost all of my crave amounts end up 1-2 cm forward of skis center mark - better control/speed of turn initiation for me.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Paul Lutes View Post
                  damn - missed your previous post re mount location: did you end up mounting forward or back from the center mark? My belated response is to mount forward. Almost all of my crave amounts end up 1-2 cm forward of skis center mark - better control/speed of turn initiation for me.
                  Ended up just about 5 mm behind center - came a little close to the front set of existing holes but they're holding, and the other two sets are totally clear. I just left it on the center mount these first two days trying to dial myself in after a long dry summer. But I'll play with the fore/aft positions over coming weeks and detune a bit at the tips. 99% of my time on these will be patrolling so carving is not the only game - also need to sideslip and pivot.

                  PS - Apologies for forum drift to "iceygroomertalk" not "backcountrytalk" but there seems to be a very high level of telemark tech knowledge here.

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