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ROM mods for TXPro/Comp

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  • #16
    Has anyone tried moving the outside instep buckle's cuff attachment point to the outside cuff pivot bolt?

    i.e. sharing the the cant/pivot bolt with the instep buckle on the outside. I'm thinking via some bushings/spacers. I wonder would this increase both tour efficiency (the strap won't drag on the tongue when the cuff pivots rearward) and foot hold (the cuff won't give slack to the instep strap when the cuff pivots forward).

    there's got to be a way to make this purrfect, right, Judgment Cat?

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Pherick View Post
      Has anyone tried moving the outside instep buckle's cuff attachment point to the outside cuff pivot bolt?
      I have not done that, but I've often thought that having low friction bushings of some sort to mount the instep clasp and wire on both cuff rivets would allow the instep buckle to maintain some tension to hold the heel in place, but also leave the unfastened cuff able to pivot more freely in walk mode.

      Here comes the blah blah blah...

      Because tele boots articulate, they need both a good heel pocket shape and a good instep buckle to hold the foot solidly in place, but that instep buckle mounted on the cuff also creates friction in walk mode which reduces efficiency in the skin track.

      Scarpa has the best heel pocket design, and puts the instep buckle on the cuff which is the best for retaining the foot for skiing, but also probably induces some extra cuff friction with the lower boot when skinning in free pivot mode. We've all discussed how cuff resistance degrades touring efficiency. Here's just another thing that contributes to cuff friction.

      Crispi have the buckle on the lower boot in front of the cuff pivot. It's far enough rearward to give good instep pressure to hold the foot solidly in place when skiing. I don't know if it also holds to lower foot solidly in walk mode because I only have the original evo (BOD's) which nobody in their right mind would tour in. I really disliked the shiver-rando's. I bought them, tried them on and didn't like their fit so I returned them unused. I found them to be short cuffed and very stiff for a touring boot. My buddy bought a pair and gave them a few tours to see if he would grow to like them but he ended up not liking them either.

      Scott has the instep buckle way too far forward on the lower boot so they don't give any real instep pressure. Combined with their oil can shaped heel pocket, and the weird way the cuff pinches the integrated lower tongue, I couldn't get my foot to stay still in the boot in walk mode, nor did my heel stay down in ski mode... I don't see how anyone could ski "the prophet" unless they never tried a scarpa boot...

      with all this being said, I don't think I want to take the chance of butchering my tx's to reduce the friction on my cuff and end up without a working touring boot in my boot quiver... but I'm going to look at it this afternoon. I think the big issue will be replacing the rivet after any modification, not the modification itself... If it looks viable or interesting I'll report back.
      the fall line is your friend.... resistance is futile

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      • #18
        Originally posted by tele.skier View Post
        the chance of butchering
        I'm in the fortunate position of having a BTS pair of TXComps for Frankensteining and a pair of F1s for scavenging (useful tnuts and buckles and chunks of whatnot). If any of it works I'd move it over to my new pair of TXPros. If only work/life priorities would get out of the way. Fortunately (?) the snow is so sketchy in the NWasatch right now I might get a shot this weekend.

        Here's a bonkers idea: tapping the canting bushing and screwing the buckle to that with a bolt that has a body long enough to let it rotate. Maybe do this right at that little adjustment divot on the bushing. Probably wouldn't be strong enough (but would be if that bushing were steel) and would commit you to whatever cant that straight line of pull would be. The first part being a showstopper, the second probably wouldn't matter to me after a run or two.

        I'm thinking about first trying this with just a vstrap skewered by the canting nut, tightened through the instep wire. I think this is the easiest POC, to see how much of a difference it makes.

        To make this folly nice and financially detrimental, I've got a pair of EVO WC in the mail to see if those solve any other problems. Thanks for the nudge on that one Tele.Skier.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Pherick View Post
          To make this folly nice and financially detrimental, I've got a pair of EVO WC in the mail to see if those solve any other problems. Thanks for the nudge on that one Tele.Skier.
          Once you ski your new WC's (boots of death) you'll have a whole new perspective on what boot leverage is. Understanding this extreme end of the gear continuum, kind of fills in the whole gear/mechanical force/binding activity "big picture"... I have railed about boot/binding leverage being a huge set of training wheels for decades... Now, you'll find out after a few runs in these boots what powerful gear does... It's cheating... and it's awesome controlling giant pow skis on big pow days...
          the fall line is your friend.... resistance is futile

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          • #20
            Originally posted by tele.skier View Post
            Now, you'll find out after a few runs in these boots what powerful gear does... It's cheating... and it's awesome controlling giant pow skis on big pow days...
            Honestly I've never wanted for power with the Comps, and I ride big-ish skis. The Shaman is "only" 110mm or so, but the shovel is 160mm, and the ski is full camber. I'll ride those in bumps all day with red spring Freerides cranked down. Only to say that if the world is about to turn with the WC, I'll welcome it with a sh*t eating grin. ...and forever have you to thank!

            It's very likely that slop and squish is just the water I don't know I'm swimming in and I am about to get rocked, or the mountain is.

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            • #21
              You don't have to thank me. Maybe you won't like them! Besides controlling a giant powder ski, they also kick ass getting a quicker response from any ski which is helpful in quickening transitions in the bumps. I ski them at the resort, but I feel like my "attacking the bumps" days are mostly behind me (getting old) At this point they save me a lot of energy because they have so much leverage they allow me to shorten my form and control my skis from a very tall, efficient stance... (they allow me to ski hard slopes and be lazy....) I hope you like them.... There's a few people here who decided to buy them and appreciate their "cheating" quality. ( I think Alan Fici was the last guy who raved about them here after he got his pair...)
              Last edited by tele.skier; 7th February 2020, 03:07 PM.
              the fall line is your friend.... resistance is futile

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              • #22
                I might be one of the only ones but I really like my TX pros and the way they tour. They feel very similar to my T2s and just a bit stiffer and a bit less ROM. I wouldnt call them a T1 in stiffness but Id rather tour on my Tx Pros then my T1 Bumble bees.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by telenerd View Post
                  I might be one of the only ones but I really like my TX pros and the way they tour. They feel very similar to my T2s and just a bit stiffer and a bit less ROM. I wouldnt call them a T1 in stiffness but Id rather tour on my Tx Pros then my T1 Bumble bees.
                  I've toured for years in TXComps and never really minded it, same ROM. You only really pay on the flat. If they're heavy I wouldn't know; I've never toured AT and I expect the endeavor to be exhausting anyway.

                  But- flats defend a lot of good terrain in my parts, so if it were easy to add some ROM, I'd take it. I'm willing to experiment now that I have a pair of retired boots.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by tele.skier View Post
                    I hope you like them...
                    Swing and a miss on the first pair. The Crispi 24.5/25 was too short for me. My Scarpa 24.5/25 have significantly more length, mostly in the heel cup (i.e. the footbed is just about the same, still shorter, but the length "up behind" the heel in the Scarpa must be what makes the fit for me. The forefoot is narrower, as cautioned and expected, but that wasn't too bad an issue and might contribute to force transfer for what it takes away in bedroom slipperness.

                    Flexing the boot once in a binding was a quick "nope" as my heel crushed into the back wall of the heel pocket.

                    Sweet boot, though. It's pretty obvious handling it and putting it on. I'll try the next size up. Fear I might be lost in the middle.

                    I did notice I couldn't step in to the OutlawX. I have to pull up the cams and they snap in. I actually like that positive engagement.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by jtb View Post

                      I had the same problem. Here is my solution. I posted this in bar & grill before I knew there was a boot section: https://www.backcountrytalk.com/foru...rpa-tx2-hybrid
                      This is awesome, thanks for sharing!

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                      • #26
                        I removed the powerstraps from my Tx pros. The boots seem to tour a little better and dont really notice any degrade in performance for going down. For steeper terrain I just cinch up the cuff buckles. Other than that, it will be interesting to see what Scarpa offers in their next line up. Hopefully its not just color changes.

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