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Recommended bolt size for Michael Bolt-ons on F1s

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  • Recommended bolt size for Michael Bolt-ons on F1s

    I'm getting ready to mount the bolt-ons on F1s for myself and my partner. I've seen the recommendation to use 10-24 t nuts, but I'm wondering what length bolts to use. Any guidance would be much appreciated. Cheers.
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  • #2
    Right on, glad to see more folks wanting to rip the up and the down!

    You are correct, the idea is to use 10-24, 10-32, or M5 screws & T-nuts (depending on whichever are easiest to access in your area). Do you have a decent local hardware store?

    The answer for length depends on a couple factors. Different boot models have different thickness plastic on the soles, and the rear part of the duckbutt is thicker. Individual 10-32 screws at my local hardware store are 11 cents each, so per boot I'll get a range of lengths, four at 3/8", four at 1/2", four at 5/8" and four at 3/4" (I think that covers it). Then I'll see which ones let me get as much bite on the T-nut as possible without sticking thru.

    Last thing to remember: Flatten or remove the prongs on your T-nuts before inserting them. You want the T-nut's flange to lay flush on the plastic.

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    • #3
      Nice clean work on those soles.

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      • #4
        BTS thanks for the info! I've got a decent local hardware store around the corner. I used a heat gun on the soles before taking the material off with a utility knife. That part was super easy. I figured I'd need a range of bolts so thank you for providing a starting range from which to work. I was wondering whether I might be able to use the heat gun to sink the t nuts inside the shell without having to remove the prongs? Too risky?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by postmechanical View Post
          I was wondering whether I might be able to use the heat gun to sink the t nuts inside the shell without having to remove the prongs? Too risky?
          I wouldn't risk it. As I'm sure you found, that plastic is pretty darn soft. Just the little burrs on the T-nut after you flatten/remove the prongs should be enough to keep them from spinning when tightened.

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          • #6
            Question: why do you guys remove the rubber from the sole before installing, vs. just flattening the lugs on the rubber? When I installed mine, I found that the thickness of the rubber helped space down the duck butt just enough to engage step-in, so I left the rubber. I think if the bolts are tight enough, there shouldn't be issues with compression and movement of the duck butt... in fact, the rubber might help keep it in place like a gasket?

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            • #7
              I guess heating, cutting, then removing the rubber seemed like the easiest way to go about getting a flat spot. And it helped me drop 2.37 grams, ha (and another 3.19g with the shorter screws). So far it has worked well for me, but a clean grind job seems like it should work fine too.

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