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Looking for a Axl Jig

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  • Looking for a Axl Jig

    I have two pair of skis to mount up with some Axls So I'm looking to borrow or buy a Axl Jig. Yes I know I can buy a Jig form 22 but I'm hopping not to send a $170. I live in Auburn Ca, so I'm hopping to just borrow one for like a week. I know it seems like a shot in the dark. I'll give you a 12er of your choice!
    Last edited by Rads63; 4 October 2014, 09:35 PM.

  • #2
    Are you fairly good with tools? Of so:
    http://www.twentytwodesigns.com/tech_axl_template.html
    http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...n-****ing-skis
    ^Probably NSFW thread title.

    I - and certainly others here - can help walk you through using a paper template to mount.
    Last edited by televisionary; 4 October 2014, 09:49 PM.
    backcountry in northern New Mexico

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    • #3
      A paper jig and the techniques outlines in this tutorial should allow you to mount those binders reliably.

      For good measure I recommend using inserts (Quiver Killers) on the rear two holes. Tutorial on installing inserts at EYT too.

      ain't no turn like tele!

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      • #4
        All good advice!
        televisionary I'm no master carpenter but I can swing a hammer.

        Dostie why would you recommend the inserts on the rear two holes?

        I would say I feel confident about using the paper template but not so confident on get things to line up at boot sole center

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        • #5
          Get the template and practice on a 2x4. You can use that to help you determine the boot center marking on that set up/template. Most templates have markings to help you get the boot center over the mark on the ski, but for the Axl template there's this:
          http://www.slidewright.com/weblog/sk...-center-gauge/

          I use calipers and a ruler to find and mark the centerline:
          http://www.slidewright.com/weblog/sk...is-centerline/

          More primer material:
          http://www.slidewright.com/weblog/sk...ing-templates/
          http://www.slidewright.com/weblog/sk...ount-bindings/
          http://www.slidewright.com/weblog/sk...hand-drilling/

          Being able to mount your own bindings is a great skill...and can help you get liquid rewards from your friends.
          Last edited by televisionary; 5 October 2014, 06:02 PM.
          backcountry in northern New Mexico

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Rads63 View Post
            Dostie why would you recommend the inserts on the rear two holes?
            The pry bar effect is strongest on the rear holes, regardless of whether it is the "standard" 4-hole mount, enhanced 6-hole (BD-O1, Burnt Mt. Spike, G3 Enzo), or 22D 6-hole pattern. I swap a lot of bindings for testing so the holes could get stressed but with inserts on the rear it is a non-issue. Anyone I know who has ripped bindings out the weakness always starts at the rear since they experience the most force (repetitively, like a jack-hammer). Even when I'm swapping bindings, I find that regular wood screws on the front is not an issue, as long as the rear holes are using QK inserts. BF if you prefer.

            ain't no turn like tele!

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Rads63 View Post
              I would say I feel confident about using the paper template but not so confident on get things to line up at boot sole center
              Perhaps I'm missing something, but that's actually pretty easy. Measure your boot sole length (it may be imprinted on the boot too but I'd still measure to confirm), subtract 14 mm for the duck bill (this is tip of toe to pin line), and divide by two. You can then mark your boot's center on 22 Designs's paper template -- if your BSL is 332 mm, (332 - 14)/2 = 159 mm, then just draw a line that is 159 mm behind the pin line on 22D's paper template. Now you can line the boot center line that you drew on the paper template with the center line of the ski (or where ever it is you want to put your coot center line, e.g., 1 cm behind center).

              For me, the most laborious part of the paper template process is finding the center line of the ski that runs parallel with the length of the ski. I use Slidewright's paper ruler which you can find through the links televisionary provided. I run some masking tape down the ski, locate and mark about 4 center dots with the paper center line, and then connect them with a ruler. I'll recheck the line with the paper ruler. I'm probably going blind 'cause that typically takes me 20-30 minutes to do right.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by dschane View Post
                Perhaps I'm missing something, but that's actually pretty easy. Measure your boot sole length (it may be imprinted on the boot too but I'd still measure to confirm), subtract 14 mm for the duck bill (this is tip of toe to pin line), and divide by two. You can then mark your boot's center on 22 Designs's paper template -- if your BSL is 332 mm, (332 - 14)/2 = 159 mm, then just draw a line that is 159 mm behind the pin line on 22D's paper template. Now you can line the boot center line that you drew on the paper template with the center line of the ski (or where ever it is you want to put your coot center line, e.g., 1 cm behind center).

                For me, the most laborious part of the paper template process is finding the center line of the ski that runs parallel with the length of the ski. I use Slidewright's paper ruler which you can find through the links televisionary provided. I run some masking tape down the ski, locate and mark about 4 center dots with the paper center line, and then connect them with a ruler. I'll recheck the line with the paper ruler. I'm probably going blind 'cause that typically takes me 20-30 minutes to do right.
                I was missing something and you just answered it! The paper template was just throwing me off because there's no BSL line on the template.So what is the BLS for a pair of 29 T-Race? ( just wondering)
                It all makes perfect cents to me now,thank you!
                Now on to finding the center line. With the Slidewright paper rule I' feeling fairly confident on that front.

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                • #9
                  Dostie- if you are putting inserts on the rear two holes, why not all six? To save time and/or $$, or because you actually like wood screws?

                  I am slowly moving to inserts on all my skis even if I don't plan to swap the bindings - it is really nice to do a quick change if I need a part and unmounted skis fit in ski bags (for flying) much better. If I had all the time in the world, I would put inserts in all my skis for both Axls and tech bindings - the TLT Turn/Vertical hole pattern finds perfectly between the Axl's pattern.

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                  • #10
                    dj,

                    Just saving time and money (mostly time). The rear two holes are all that is necessary to make a reliable mount that won't pull out.

                    ain't no turn like tele!

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Rads63 View Post
                      So what is the BLS for a pair of 29 T-Race?
                      It is 335 mm.

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                      • #12
                        Just wanted to add that if you print out the paper templates, don't make the same dumb mistake that I made: make sure your printer properties are set to print at 100% and NOT fit to page. It makes a difference and sort of had me scratching my head for a minute.

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                        • #13
                          I'm about to mount some Axl's, very timely thread!
                          Originally posted by riser3
                          I heart filthy, stinky "hippies", although isn't mchin a Doctor or something like that? Hardly qualifies as a "hippie" IMHO...

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by dschane View Post
                            It is 335 mm.
                            Right on dschane Thank you

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