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Freeride Risers & Binding Swapping

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  • Freeride Risers & Binding Swapping

    Click image for larger version

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    ^^This is a picture of the 10mm riser available for the current Freerides.

    Click image for larger version

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    ^^This is a picture of a different product, the mounting plate and heel that allows for Freeride binding transfer between skis

    Does the 10mm riser act like the swap plate in the latter image, permitting the transfer of bindings?

  • #2
    Also, does anyone know the height of the standard heel for Freerides (with the climbing post not deployed)?

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    • #3
      It's my understanding that the 10mm plate works as a swap plate in the same way that the thin pink base plate does. I assume the thick plate is for racing to give the skier a little bit more leverage angulating while also giving extra clearance from booting out against the snow at the same time.

      The height of the newest freeride heels are a scant 1 5/8" and the older version of NTN freeride heels are closer to 1 3/4" tall.

      Only the newer model freerides will fit on the pink plate btw. Rottefella deemed it necessary to make the tongue of the pink plate thicker than the rabbet to recieve the base plate that the earlier versions of the freeride had, so there's a chance that if you have an orange freeride, it may or may not fit on the pink baseplate. To the best of my knowlege ALL black freerides will fit on the pink baseplate,.... HTH...
      Last edited by tele.skier; 21 September 2013, 10:10 AM.
      the fall line is your friend.... resistance is futile

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      • #4
        Thanks much, that is exactly the info I was looking for. If I ended up using a different brand heel that was a bit (say - about 1/8") lower than the stock Freeride one, would the Freeride toepiece be accommodating of that? I can't see why not.

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        • #5
          IF you go with a low heel, you place a large amount of stress on the rear of the binding's ladder frame, because your boot may not have the heel to limit it's downward travel causing much greater stress on the rear of your binding frame.

          You could just shim the heel up with some hydrophobic plastic, like nylon, delrin, polycarbonate, hdpe, or something like that. You could also grind down the upper rail until your boot's heel is seated on the lower heel piece. I bet you wouldn't have to grind a lot off.

          *I'd probabaly shim the heel and call it good.
          the fall line is your friend.... resistance is futile

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          • #6
            I'll add that the newer black versions do in fact fit the older metal 6 hole plates.
            Lift served and proud of it.

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