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Crampons for TTS

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  • Crampons for TTS

    The icy conditions lately have brought another potential project to the front of the queue. I've seen this question posted before, but haven't seen a good answer.

    Most tech toes have a crampon connector right behind the toe. With TTS, you either have to use a crampon that somehow clears the TTS block, or you have to mount the crampon behind the TTS block. The latter requires using something like the stand-alone B&D crampon blocks, Voile crampons, or a custom solution (machining the TTS block to accept a Dynafit crampon tab).

    Mounting crampons behind the TTS block would be easier, but at least in my setup, would interfere with the climbing wires, not to mention requiring removal of the spring cartridges. I'd rather mount them in front of the springs, allowing me to leave the springs connected and use the existing toe's crampon mounting tab.

    Here's a picture of a Dynafit 90mm crampon on my TTS setup. It almost clears the spring wires -- might clear with some bending. A 100mm crampon would clear for sure. It gets hung up on the TTS block though.

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    I'm wondering if there are any crampons that have a shape that would clear the TTS block. The Atomic Shift crampons look like they might work, since they are shaped to clear the AFD behind the toe. I think they might clear the TTS block, but maybe not the spring wires.

    https://shop.atomic.com/en/products/...20-ad0340.html
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    Questions:
    1. Does anyone have a set of Shift bindings and can measure dimensions of either the crampon cutout or AFD?
    2. Has anyone found another solution?
    Attached Files

  • #2
    I've mounted some Shifts this season, so give me a day or two to get that information from a friend if no one here has it. But, it seems unlikely to me that you'll find a crampon that covers both the plate and spring wires/connecting rods, unless you go with a 130mm crampon for your 80mm skis (or something like that).

    The only other option that I've heard about over the years is to put a Voile crampon forward of the toes. Also not ideal. And then that raises the question whether you'd be better off with those Skeat gizmos or something like that.

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    • #3
      This BnDSkiGear doodad works well for me with the heel throw flipped forward. Other than looking very strange I find no downside.


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      I acknowledge that I live on the traditional territory of the Algonquin Nation

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      • #4
        zonca that's a good point... you don't have to remove the springs if they'll flip forward. Mine hit the wings of the TR2 toe (which is wider than normal tech toes), but clears with some mild bending. If I can't find a crampon that works in front of the TTS block, your solution would work.

        dschane thanks for the offer. A 100mm crampon does clear the TTS springs -- it doesn't have to clear the entire cartridge, just the wires. But I'm not sure if there are any 100mm wide crampons that also have an indentation to clear the TTS block. The Shift one looks the most promising, but I'm not sure if the indentation is wide enough.

        Comment


        • #5
          I wanted to use the B&D articulating crampon for NTN freedom bindings also. The problem which I had wasn't exactly the same as your cable block issue. In my case the freedom binding has a pink guide plate under the claw body to give lateral support when your heel is down and it was in the way of a simple mount. I could have just removed it probably or made some modification to have the installed crampon rest solidly on it, but as I recall I asked Dostie for his opinion. He said that for as much as you will use a ski crampon, the difference between fixed and articulating crampon wouldn't matter all that much. I think he also said that the fixed crampon is more sure to stay planted in dicey situations. The fixed crampon might be less energy efficient when skinning than the articulating one, but for the amount of time I will used it, it wasn't significant.

          So I mounted the voile' fixed crampon between my heel piece and the pink guide plate. I had to grind the front lip off the aluminum crampon so it didn't interfere with the NTN claw. That works for me here in the PNW. We don't get much boiler plate because it's just not that cold here. this is the result...

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          Last edited by tele.skier; 22 January 2021, 06:56 AM.
          the fall line is your friend.... resistance is futile

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          • #6
            jtb- looking at these pics I notice that your pivot rod is a lot straighter than the one I pictured. Checked my ****load of spare parts and other installs and I conclude your rods have a similar bend to the earlier OMG TTS. I have both long and short of both types. I recall that with the straighter rods (before I got red springs) I had to make sure the toe was closed to get the rods past and your Trab toes might have thicker arms and open a bit wider. I think you would be OK to put the rods in a vise and put a permanent wider route on them then loosen your springs a tad.

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            Attached Files
            Last edited by zonca; 22 January 2021, 08:28 AM.
            I acknowledge that I live on the traditional territory of the Algonquin Nation

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            • #7
              Hey! zonca!

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              • #8
                Let's all sing Coombe ba ya together now.
                I acknowledge that I live on the traditional territory of the Algonquin Nation

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                • #9
                  I haven't felt this close to a total ski forum stranger since me and SkardStles shared our love of the Volkl Snow Ranger.

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                  • #10
                    Some Shift pictures. The running length of the crampon slots are about 2.75" and the clearance from the slots to the end of the toe piece is about 2.5".

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                    • #11
                      Thanks dschane. I measured my TTS. The pivot block is 2.5" wide, and the spring rods are about 3.5" wide. So the Shift crampon should clear the pivot block, but not the spring rods. I wonder whether the Shift crampon could be modified to work (grind away the top part where the spring rods start, and add a support cross-member at the back). To find out I think I'd need to bite the bullet and buy a set.

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