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Gorrilla Glue for bindings?

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  • Gorrilla Glue for bindings?

    I am waiting on a shorter cable from 22 designs for my lynx due to claw grabbing when in tour mode. I need to take the binding off to install new cable, would gorrilla wood glue be okay for remounting binding?

  • #2
    Maybe, if it's waterproof. When not wanting to mess with epoxy, most folks will use this stuff:

    Click image for larger version

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    • #3

      From DIY: Mounting Bindings, in the Glue section...

      The guys at Voile turned me on to Gorilla glue. Actually my daughter did, but since I didn’t quite believe her, Voile was professional confirmation there was something to her recommendation. It foams up, but that gives it pressure to spread out and cover every square nano-meter of surface area between the screw and core of the ski. It definitely takes more pressure to break the bond compared to wood glue, but less than epoxy.
      It helps to add a bit o' secret sauce* to each hole before applying the glue.

      * - a drop of H20

      ain't no turn like tele!


      • #4
        Okay; I'm sure there's some chemical explanation i.e. the water "activates" the glue, but somehow putting water in binding holes seems like a recipe for rotting ski guts and rusted binding screws. Think I'll pass.


        • #5
          I'm a woodwork pro. WTBS Even experts have to be open to new ideas and new technologies. The long version of my opinion, trust me you don't want to hear,... I'm sure. The short version is that if all the "glue" does is seal the screw hole so moisture doesn't weaken the wood under pressure from the screw, then probably any glue or sealant can be used to do that.

          The secondary advantage of a glue is how much it contributes to the strength of the wood matrix surrounding the screw when it's assembled, and how strong it is alone when it fills any voids. Liquid epoxy is probably the best for this kind of added strength. I like the titebond III as well for strength. It soaks into the wood and adds to the wood's rigidity. Epoxy like JBweld have good void filling qualities, but I don't think they soak into the wood as well as a polyester glass resin type of "glue".

          Gorilla glue, as I recall is a polyurethane glue. Polyurethanes have in the past had more elastic qualities than epoxies or wood glue. This is probably good for sealing the screw hole, but probably doesn't add as much strength to the wood core... but I don't really use it ever in my work, so I don't really know what it's like cured... Does it cure "rock hard"? or is it at all rubbery? I would think it's cured rigidity would tell you how much strength it adds to the wood core when it soaks in during assembly.

          It's important to get the right counterbore size for the screw, so you just have pressure between the screw threads and the core, but not damage the matrix structure of the wood. If you see a volcano shape around your screw when you drive it into the ski, then your counter bored hole is too small...
          Last edited by tele.skier; 14 February 2020, 10:49 AM.
          the fall line is your friend.... resistance is futile


          • #6
            I think Gorilla glue is pretty good stuff if done right for certain applications, maybe even ski mounts. Done right means adding water to the project and maybe warmer temps during the curing stage. If you are determined to use it I would run a test batch and see. WTBS, I would NOT use it in this project as you are reusing holes with some sort of glue already in the holes and the holes are sealed up and this mount will not be as strong as the original mount. If it were me I would run the right tap down the holes and then use a epoxy/silica mixture as the adhesive. This will give you the best chance of a bullet proof mount.
            Last edited by Quadzilla; 14 February 2020, 11:25 AM.
            "Just say no to groomed snow"


            • #7
              Gorilla glue works great. I can tell you from a lot of experience using it for ski mounts. It is waterproof. It holds well but is breakable when you need to remove a screw - although it can take some solid pressure to break the bond. I have never bothered with the water mist (I do when using Gorilla Glue in woodworking applications). I've never had an issue and I've mounted countless skis/bindings with it and remounted in the same holes many times including the Lynx. So I would have no hesitation to use it for your project. The only issue I could see is with a 'no-core' ultralight ski.


              • #8
                My two cents in short form, apologies if brusqueness seen as dismissive. The Gorilla Glue that is moisture activated polyurethane glue is now marketed as "Classic." The bottle pictured above is PVA glue. That's what Titebond (I, II, & III) is. All those are water based so contain at least as much H2O as the activating drop for foamy Gorilla. Wood always has some H2O. Your Stradivarius is probably ~6%. The exquisite Vapor Barrier on your skis is something less than 100%. All to say: the water in your screw glue is not a problem. I think Frank (the cabinetmaker) knows his glue. PVA glue fortifies wood fibers. Epoxy does more so. Ron--QZ--regularly references "silica" for epoxy. It really is "affumicated silica" (cabosil at TAP)--solidified silica fumes--crazy light. It makes epoxy "thixotropic"--thickens and keeps from running. As such it fills gaps in an old hole. But it doesn't add strength [quick fact-check shows I am wrong again. At least per West ] and doesn't penetrate wood fibers well. Best to wet hole first with un modified epoxy, then use modified, including milled glass fibers, which do add strength [main advantage, post-fact check, is much easier to mix] well as thicken some. The easy way to use real epoxy with no waste?--Get bottles of real epoxy with nipple spouts. Four drops of resin and two of catalyst is as exact a mix as you need (for 2:1). Adjust recipe for #screws. Mix with a wire 60 stirs or more. Any quantity errors now measured in drops i/o ounces. Apply heat lamp if you can't bring inside.
                Last edited by Charley White; 14 February 2020, 01:18 PM.
                nee, Whiteout


                • #9
                  I've used Gorilla Glue on a couple mounts -- including to shore up spinning inserts -- and it's done the job well. In fact, I just moved some Hammer Heels up a cm or two that had been installed with GG, and it took quite a snap of the wrist to break them free. I've recently used West System G-Flex 650 based on some Teton Gravity Research threads, and it's also held up well. It's supposed to be more elastic, which I figure is good for flexing skis.


                  • #10
                    Cool thanks for the info guys.


                    • #11
                      Always used a dash of gorilla glue for screws and also smear it on the binding/ski top-plate surface interface to further lock the binding to the ski. Hasn't failed yet.


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Valdez Telehead View Post
                        Always used a dash of gorilla glue for screws and also smear it on the binding/ski top-plate surface interface to further lock the binding to the ski. Hasn't failed yet.
                        Yeah, I do that too. It does indeed lock the binding plate in place on the ski by creating a burm of glue around the binding plate's shape, which takes a lot of the latteral force between the binding and ski, rather than having all that force on the screws alone.

                        Back in the day, 3 pin bindings had only 3 screws holding them in place and those bindings always came loose eventually, if you skied aggressively. I started back then setting my bindings in an epoxy smear on top of the ski. It worked to keep the binding in place, unfortunately the force just bent the crap out of the 3 pins so the boot was slopping around in the binding. so the next modification was adding voile' plates under the binding... Thank god we have better gear now....
                        the fall line is your friend.... resistance is futile


                        • #13
                          I agree with tele.skier that it’s good to knock the volcano down with a counter sink, just don’t over do it.

                          Gorilla glue is a moisture curing polyurethane glue. I’ve used it quite a lot this past year assembling dovetailed maple drawer boxes because it gives me more open time for assembly vs a PVA. I personally skip adding water when assembling as there’s usually plenty of ambient moisture in the air. It’ll just cure a little slower without adding water. It also bonds well to old glue where PVA will not.

                          My first choice for ski mount glue is epoxy with no added thickeners. But I’m mostly mounting with inserts. It’s still my preference even with bindings screws. It’s waterproof, holds well and if needed can be released with heat from a soldering iron.
                          Last edited by Allan Fici; 16 February 2020, 06:43 AM.
                          Function in disaster, finish in style.


                          • #14
                            I still use original Voile Plates on my sand skis. They provide noticeable performance on a skinny ski with T2s.

                            I am an epoxy on all mounts kind of tech. In addition to all that has been said, if you back them out a quarter turn after they have been setting for a half hour or so, wait a few minutes, and then tighten them down again, you don't even need heat to pull them when you need to. And they don't lose any strength or waterproofness.


                            • #15
                              I would stay away from any PVA glues, they are only water resistant.
                              Gorrilla is good stuff...until you get it on your fingers. If the voids are too big they get filled with foamed glue, which is not strong, and I suspect not waterproof.
                              Probably the best is to use a thin epoxy, then heat it with a hair drier, it will the soak into the core. I was speaking to a local boutique ski manufacturer, he has repaired delaminated skis with hot epoxy.
                              For lightweight cores, I would carefully extend and widen the hole right to the base, fill with epoxy before redrilling.