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Removing Rush (Maestrale) cuff

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  • Removing Rush (Maestrale) cuff

    I want to put these cuffs on a TX-Pro lower boot to shave a few grams and more importantly, to improve the ROM if that's even possible. But I've failed to accomplish this seemingly simple task enough times now that I'll swallow my pride and seek the advice of the community here.

    I had no problem removing the axle bolts and canting bolts. It's the walk mode assembly that has me stumped. It is attached to the cuff with two steel plates and four M4x12mm hex head machine screws. I only moved one of them enough to remove it. The other seven are unwilling to budge, even when heated with a soldering iron. I tried to drill them out and got about half way through one screw and then broke a $20 drill bit. The other seven screws are either stripped on the head or the head simply sheared off.

    If I can't remove the walk mode assembly I can't move the cuffs to the other shells. Heat didn't work. Drilling them out didn't work. I'm stumped.

  • #2
    A screw removal tool in an impact driver is your next option-
    https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01925A-...=car-bibles-20

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    • #3
      Maybe try grinding the heads off with a Dremel? The screw removal tool is worth a try but I couldn't get it to grab on the bolt holding the tongue and bellows guard from mine.
      It's turns! Of course it's worth the hike!

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      • #4
        Thanks! I'll go to Homac to see if they have one that goes as small as M4.

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        • #5
          Come on chez,... You know most of us tinkerers are OCD.... give us a picture or 2...


          I have a pair of mistraleRS in house that I'll add a picture... Here's the inside of the RS. I don't know if your cuff looks the same. Those are rivets, so you need to grind the heads off with dremel. I like the roughest sandpaper drum that mounts on the rubber barrel to blast that kind of head off without damaging the backing plate.


          Click image for larger version

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          the outside looks like it's a star drive bolt, but it's probably not. I bet it's just star drive because the tool that spins the rivet over on the inside would spin the entire rivet in place and melt the pebax if they didn't have a star drive to keep the entire rivet from spinning when they fasten the rivet. Here's what the outside of the RS boot I have looks like for comparison...

          Click image for larger version

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          If your cuff looks like this. Grind off the inner rivet heads and gently punch the long rivets out. Support the cuff somehow, and leave the inner plate in place when you punch the shaft of the rivet. It will help keep your punch from drifting into the pebax...

          Replace the rivets with nuts and bolts. Use locktite blue so they stay assembled.
          Last edited by tele.skier; 9th October 2019, 10:11 AM.
          the fall line is your friend.... resistance is futile

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          • #6
            Originally posted by tele.skier View Post
            ....gently punch the long rivets out.
            Click image for larger version

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            Last edited by aqua toque; 9th October 2019, 06:57 PM.

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            • #7


              I went back and looked at my options. Decided to punch out the pin holding the walk mode tab thinking I would probably just use it instead of the one in the Pros. Took a long time to get it to budge but once it did it was easy to get out. I removed the cuff from one of the pros and it came off much more easily. Then I held the Rush cuff against the Pro shell to get an idea if it would even be possible. I wasn't sure but I knew it wouldn't happen without surgery. There were two triangular tabs on the back of the Pro shell that prevented the Rush cuff from fitting so that the holes would line up for the bolts. I cut the tabs off. I still wasn't sure but it soon became apparent that the walk mode tab on the Rush was not going to help so I solved the stuck screws problem by simply destroying it with a hacksaw. I flipped the tab from the Pro around to give it greater ROM and tried to put everything back together. It was still too tight. More surgery required. I had to carve the inside back of the Rush cuff to make it thinner and then, VOILA! The fit is perfect! ROM is better but how much better I'm not sure yet. With an old Scarpa wrap liner the Frankenboot is 225 g lighter than the Pro with the topmost buckle removed. I still need to smooth out the parts that I carved to reduce the horrible squeaking and squawking. And I still need to do the same to the other boot. But I think I have a good touring mod on a second pair of boots. Thanks for all the advice, y'all. Here are some pics.

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              • #8
                it looks like you assembled the lock bar backwards on the Rush cuffed boot...

                the fall line is your friend.... resistance is futile

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                • #9
                  Yes. I did that on purpose because it provides greater ROM this way. I do wonder if it will be placed under a bending stress when locked for downhill and flexing the boot. But it also seems that installed the correct way it severely limits ROM, my primary complaint about the TX-Pro. I don't mind that it creates less forward lean when locked. I actually would prefer that, especially in soft snow. I also considered leaving it out altogether and skiing full time in walk mode but I'll try it this way first.
                  Last edited by cesare; 10th October 2019, 08:56 AM.

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                  • #10
                    Cool mod. Picture of the modded boot looks great. Do you still have the canting adjustment on the Frankenboot? I have both a pair of the Rush boots (passed on to my son) and the TX-Pro. I feel the TX-Pro is too soft, so now I just ski with the TX Comp.

                    No cuff canting capability is my one beef, with my new Maestrale RS. (plus I had to ship them West for new boot shell)
                    Last edited by chamonix; 10th October 2019, 08:38 PM.

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                    • #11
                      Yes. I bought new bolts both the canting side and non-canting at the Scarpa warehouse when I was in Boulder last month. They have soft rivet metal on the ends that I destroyed removing them.

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                      • #12
                        They are finished. The walk mode assembly really didn't want to fit well between the two parts. But what I discovered was that the Maestrale cuff and the TX-Pro shell fit together so tightly that with the boot buckled I really didn't need the ski mode. So I drilled it all out, filled it with foam and JB Weld, and taped over it just to protect it.

                        The flex is just how I like it, soft in forward ankle motion and stiffer than the TX-Pro laterally while being 290 g lighter per foot.Can't wait to ski them!

                        Click image for larger version

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                        • #13
                          Nice work Cesare.
                          what size cuff for what size lower did you use?

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                          • #14
                            Can hardly wait to hear how they work on snow. Nice mod, Cesare!

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                            • #15
                              silow, excellent question that I neglected to mention. The shell is a 26.5/27 TX-Pro and the cuff is a 28 Rush. It's interesting because the 28 Rush cuff was almost too small for the 27 Pro shell. I had to cut and grind on both to get them to where the holes would line up. I am not sure where the cuffs' sizing breaks for Rush/Maestrale but I think a larger one would have been easier to adapt. I don't think I would have done this if it was my only pair of TX-Pros but now that I have done it once, I would consider it on the others if I can find a similar cuff but it definitely would have to be at least a 29 because the other shells are 28.

                              While I'm thinking about it, I found a place in a Scarpa repair video to screen capture a view of the tabs on the back of the TX-Pro shell that I cut off and smoothed out with a dremel. I can't figure out why these are even there but they seem to have the effect of limiting the ROM so I wonder if cutting them off would not be a bad thing for any Pro that is used for touring.

                              Click image for larger version  Name:	txpro_tabs.jpg Views:	1 Size:	33.2 KB ID:	97127
                              Last edited by cesare; 16th October 2019, 04:41 AM.

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