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Shasta Conditions - spring 2014
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According to these know-it-alls http://shastaavalanche.org/advisories/climbing-advisory
North Gate trailhead is open. Brewer Creek is drivable to 5 miles to the TH. Clear Creek is 2.4 miles to the TH. (always wanted to check out that route).
Reports?
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A friend who rode Avalanche Gulch Saturday reported (paraphrasing):
Rode off just below the summit block on rim ice, and then dropped onto the upper portion of the Konwakiton Glacier to avoid the sastrugi on Misery Hill . . . windboard and ice to the Red Banks chutes, then rode down one of the chutes (highlight of the trip) and into the huge bowl above Helen Lake. From Helen to the car was some of the best corn snow I have skied in a long time
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Hey guys, i need some advice.
I am planning to climb up this thursday, this is my first time climbing shasta and I have following questions. I have previous snow climbing experience, I've done Teton and Kirkwood backcountry.
1) Do I wear ski boots trying to climb up? This really looks like a lot of work with ski boots considering how stiff it is, and also the skiis, they are pretty heavy, that will pretty much jack up my weight to almost 60 to 70lbs.
2) Camping at Lake Helen in 2014, I cant seem to find the snow condition for this, but according to the weather report it seems its well above 32 degrees, does that mean I can use a all season tent? or a snow tent is required.
3) Let's say if I decide to climb with Ski Boots over Mountaineering boots, this is generally not walkable, is there some special hybrid boots?
My general guts tells me to just go with mountaineering boots and glissade down, but that looks a lot more dangerous than skiing down since I am a better skier than glissader... I really want to get on top with my skiis but I also want to do it without adding too much weight and wearing the unwalkable boots.
Any advice on what I should do?
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Originally posted by Nyceane View Post1) Do I wear ski boots trying to climb up? This really looks like a lot of work with ski boots considering how stiff it is, and also the skiis, they are pretty heavy, that will pretty much jack up my weight to almost 60 to 70 lbs.
Originally posted by Nyceane View Post2) Camping at Lake Helen in 2014, I cant seem to find the snow condition for this, but according to the weather report it seems its well above 32 degrees, does that mean I can use a all season tent? or a snow tent is required.
If your ski boots are not comfortable enough to hike for 7 hours straight, either skinning, booting, or cramponing, you need different boots. If your skis are that heavy, either man up or get lighter gear.
The other option is to do the one-day ascent/descent, but use the lightest mountaineering boots you can, carrying your skis and boots. Indeed it is heavy, but still lighter than carrying all the equipment you need to camp overnight AND your skis and boots.
Option 3. Hire a guide and let them show you the ropes on Mt. Shasta. It means camping overnight and all, but you'll be sharing the load and be with a group with the same objective and probably learn things that will help you down the road.
ain't no turn like tele!
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Option 4 - rent gear
If you have a postal scale I'd put your boots and bindings on the scale and figure out how much they weigh. You can also step on a bathroom scale and then pick them up and subtract your weight from the total. If your gear is over 20 lbs. for boots bindings and skis then I'd consider a rental. The downside is that if they don't fit your feet well or they haven't been maintained properly the equipment could fail, but if you find a reputable shop and have a pretty "normal" foot this could be the best option.
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Dostie's opinion is always worth considering. My experience is a little different.
Shasta was the first 14,000 ft peak I climbed. I was 52, not in great aerobic shape and in crampons for the first time in my life (we had a group of 7 and set up a lesson with one of the guide services as part of our first day). Nonetheless, we camped a little below Lake Helen and all 7 of us summited. The standard for guided trips appears to be at least one night on the mountain before a summit attempt, which tells you something about what works for most people.
I swore after that trip that I would never go back without skis (the friends we were with were not equipped to ski Shasta). With your backcountry experience, it sounds like you have and use skins. Ten days ago there was snow all the way to the parking at Bunny Flat (says a post above); that may not still be true but you could still have your skis on your feet most of the way to Lake Helen, rather than carrying them. You should be able to skin some ways above Lake Helen, and if you don't want to carry your skis after you give up skinning you can leave them behind while you go for the summit and pick them up on the way down. Skinning will be easier and faster than booting in any kind of boots on the way up, and skiing down will be easier, probably safer and faster (and drier) than glissading coming down. Unless you really hate snow climbing in ski boots, I would take skis and not take a second set of footwear--my impression is that plenty of people have gotten to the summit in ski boots.
Judge for yourself whether getting to the summit and back in one day will work for you. There's about 7300' of elevation difference between Bunny Flat and the summit, the air does get thin near the top and if you are susceptible to altitude sickness, there can be that to deal with, too.
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Originally posted by Nyceane View Postthis is generally not walkable, is there some special hybrid boots?
Have fun!
...and never glissade with your crampons on...Last edited by tony3; 13 May 2014, 09:15 AM.
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I agree. ^^^^
Originally posted by Nyceane View PostMy general guts tells me to just go with mountaineering boots and glissade down, but that looks a lot more dangerous than skiing down since I am a better skier than glissader...
Originally posted by Nyceane View Post3) Let's say if I decide to climb with Ski Boots over Mountaineering boots, this is generally not walkable, is there some special hybrid boots?
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