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HH Mounting Puts Boot Heels Off Center

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  • HH Mounting Puts Boot Heels Off Center

    Two pairs of my skis I’ve mounted with HH bindings, and they both ended up with the boot heels somewhat medial of the ski centerline. Being a very precise worker in this area, I am as accurate as anyone can be in marking from the template and drilling, yet I’ll bet if I mounted a third pair the boot heels would also be similarly off center. They are not that far off, about 1/16 to 3/16 inch, but it annoys the hell out of me and in trying to correct it on my brand new skis I managed to strip out two of the screw holes in one ski. Maybe I’d have been better off to have made my own templates or a jig from careful measurements from each binding, incorporating the boot center line into this. I am wondering if something is out of tolerance with the bindings. Or maybe the off centered boot heels have more to do with my Voodoo boots, or the way they fit into the toe pieces. Anyone else have this happen with mounting Hammerheads, or with Garmont Voodoos?

  • #2
    ok first off have to ask the "have you plugged it in" question- correct boots correct sides?

    Assuming yes, relax, don't worry, have a homebrew- it won't affect your skiing. I've done lots of home mounts, some HH- those no worse than others; some end up perfect some not but it's angels on a pinhead
    Reluctant enthusiast, part-time crusader, half-hearted fanatic

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    • #3
      They would be off a lot more then 3/16 if the boots were on the wrong side. I think 1/16 is good as anyone could get with out a jig and 3/16 might annoy me but I doubt you would notice it.


      Interesting last question that I can't answer with Voodoo boots but I have mounted several pair of HH with little problem.
      Last edited by James; 28 November 2013, 08:21 AM.

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      • #4
        Sorry, you're on your own with that OCD .....

        Heels are heels - I wouldn't stress too much about their placement. I don't even bother with the templates any more for the heels - just eyeball them in such that the lifters give me the desired boot angle lift. Occasionally they'll be a little cockeyed, or medially/laterally off, but it has no significant impact on performance that I've observed. Don't put them on backwards, though.

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        • #5
          Thanks all three of you for your responses. Yes, I realize that I am being somewhat OCD about this, but it's this finicky nature of mine that also makes me so careful in tasks like this, and I expect better results. Chris at 22 Designs, when I asked him about the consistent error, always to the medial side, just said "Don't worry about it, they are only tele bindings." Hope that doesn't describe their approach to QC. This symmetrical consistency suggests to me that the boots may be a big part of it, unless it is a design flaw with the toe piece.

          It was my frustration in not being able to get it right that led to my stripping out two of the six mounting holes in my new ski by trying to correct the one that was the most off center. Then it became another big project to repair those holes. I was not aware of the thread inserts that have been much discussed here, or I might have just gotten those and installed them on both skis. This would facilitate changing out my standard HH springs for stiffies, which I will try at some point after I see how these new skis do with the standard springs. After doing at least a week of testing of screw holding strength and thread release agents for various epoxy repair methods and additives such as steel wool, fiberglass, and carbon fiber, I went with the straight epoxy, and clamped the binding down and the loose screws down in their holes while the epoxy in all the holes cured. Have not skied this yet, but gave it a serious ROM stress testing with boots on my feet and in the bindings, and it seems solid.

          Any experience out there on best screw hole repair methods besides installing helicoils or SS inserts?

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          • #6
            I use these.

            http://www.slidewright.com/nylon-tap...serts-20pk.php

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Paul Lutes View Post
              Don't put them on backwards, though.
              I had a shop do that once on my son's skis--both skis (at least they were consistent).

              Hindfoot, if you want to get your money's worth from your OCD, check out some Burnt Mountain Spikes. The heel throw attaches to a tube that runs under the boot and the tube is attached only to the toepiece. If your mount is not perpendicular to the long axis of the ski, being less than1/16 off-angle at the front gets pretty noticeable at the back. (Don't ask me how I know--let's just say that I have a left and a right ski; they ski fine and I do like the bindings.)

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              • #8
                Probably 4 dozen tele mounts over the years including many HH and I've never used a template or a jig. Put the boots in binding, put on ski where you want them, eyeball centering and use a punch or a marker to mark holes on top sheet. Drill carefully and voila! No noticeable offset to Me.

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                • #9
                  How do you mark the binding holes on most bindings when the boots are in the bindings? You can't other wise your method would be OK. For better then OK for those of us who are OCD A template and a lot of fussing works better. By better I mean makes us feel better not necessarily a better mount.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by James View Post
                    James, Thanks for that suggestion. I actually turned up these nylon inserts when I was trying to figure out what to do to fix the mess I had created. I did not want to use them because I was loathe to drill the already too large holes out to a larger size until I had exhausted other possibilities. Also, they seem like they would allow water into the core, if they were not epoxied in, though I suppose that would be the standard way to install them. At this point if I were to drill the holes out I would use the SS inserts. In any case, I'll try them out first, to see if my fix holds.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by fogey View Post
                      I had a shop do that once on my son's skis--both skis (at least they were consistent).

                      Hindfoot, if you want to get your money's worth from your OCD, check out some Burnt Mountain Spikes. The heel throw attaches to a tube that runs under the boot and the tube is attached only to the toepiece. If your mount is not perpendicular to the long axis of the ski, being less than1/16 off-angle at the front gets pretty noticeable at the back. (Don't ask me how I know--let's just say that I have a left and a right ski; they ski fine and I do like the bindings.)
                      Thanks, Fogey, for the reply and suggestions. Just for the record, the problem is not with the heel piece, the Hammer-Heel, it's with the mounting of the toe piece that ends up placing the boot heel consistently off of ski center line.

                      I have been following the posts on the Burnt Mountain bindings and the TTS and if I had not just set 2/3 of my skis up with HHs in the last two years I might have $ left for further improvements without exceeding the allowable ski gear determination formula. The Burnt Mountain bindings look like a great way to improve many binding aspects without having to replace my duckbill boots, which are also quite new. I do especially like the way the HHs ski.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by climbhoser View Post
                        Probably 4 dozen tele mounts over the years including many HH and I've never used a template or a jig. Put the boots in binding, put on ski where you want them, eyeball centering and use a punch or a marker to mark holes on top sheet. Drill carefully and voila! No noticeable offset to Me.
                        Thanks for some common sense advice, ch. I like this approach, and had I used it I would likely have gotten them right on. I may have measured more to confirm the eyeballing of center. You must have marked the binding position with boot in the binding, then with boots out marked the hole centers through the binding. With every measurement or template creation or calculation there is an opportunity to screw up. As I get older I find the best way to make sure something is going to be the right size or fit into the right place is put the thing there and mark it.

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                        • #13
                          Hindfoot, you got it. On O1s I would actually duct tape around the pivot lock mechanism to hold it in place so it wouldn't budge while I removed the boot. Worked nicely.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Hindfoot View Post
                            ......Just for the record, the problem is not with the heel piece, the Hammer-Heel, it's with the mounting of the toe piece that ends up placing the boot heel consistently off of ski center line. ........
                            Doh! My apologies - obviously I completely misread that. Say, could I borrow some of your OCD? Might help with my reading comprehension ......

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Hindfoot View Post
                              James,I was loathe to drill the already too large holes out to a larger size until I had exhausted other possibilities.
                              I can't begin to tell you how hard it was for me to drill those large holes. So far they have worked out rather well but certainly understand wanting to exhaust all other possibilities.

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