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Mounting 22 Designs Outlaw X Bindings

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  • Mounting 22 Designs Outlaw X Bindings

    I recently gathered the courage to drill into perfectly good skis. In doing so, I picked up a few tips along the way that I thought I would pass along to anyone considering mounting bindings for the first time. Outlaw X's in this case, though the principles will work for any binding.

    My best tip is borrowed from YouTuber Tom M who uses a 'center ruler' to scribe a center line down the ski, to which you can align the binding template. Seems more accurate than using the parallel lines on the side of the template.
    You can print your own center ruler here:
    This 30-cm ruler centers around zero and marks 15 centimeters in either direction. Free to download and print

    Simply get the numbers to match on each metal edge of the ski (lifting the ski onto blocks helps here) and mark the 0. Mark 3 or 4 0's through the binding area and then link them together with a straight edge to construct a center line.

    Align the 22 Designs plastic template (or print your own paper) with the factory mount line at your boot's BSL and the center line you just drew.
    Somewhat confusingly, 22D marked BSL's in cm's. This makes them look like Mondo, but they're not. Use the BSL printed on your boot shell (310 in this case).
    Adjust fore or aft to stay greater than ¼" from any existing holes (that you've nicely plugged).

    Punch the front 6 holes (don't do the rear holes yet) with a center punch, or a hammer and nail.
    ​Heel Riser Holes: Divide your BSL by 2 (310 / 2 = 155 mm for me). Mark that back from the mount line.

    Now realign the template's back line to that new line, mark and punch your heel riser holes. There are special rules for shorter boots. Check 22D instructions, and check binding/riser clearance before you drill.

    Drill the holes with a stepped ski-specific drill bit if you want to save yourself some stress. Tognar is a good source:
    These specialty drill bits are designed specifically for mounting ski bindings, built in stop ensures holes are drilled to the correct depth.

    They often print the recommended bit size on the ski. It's usually 3.6mm by 9 for wood-cored skis, or 4.1mm for skis with metal in them.
    Of course you can put a piece of tape on a regular drill bit to keep from drilling through the ski, but I prefer these.

    Clean up any rough hole edges with a utility knife.
    I had better an easier time driving the mounting screws after I started using a 12AB tap to start the holes.
    Some ski and binding manufacturers recommend tapping holes prior to mounting bindings to the ski, this tap is made specifically for that job.

    Pick up the tap handle to go with it.
    Fill the holes to the top with the glue of your choice. Waterproof wood glue for me.
    Drive in the screws with a Pozi Number 3 and you're done!
    You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 8 photos.
    Last edited by kilowati; 2 March 2023, 08:31 AM.

  • #2
    The least fussy method I've found to scribe the center line uses two combination squares on one ruler. Pick a center point on the ruler, carefully set the squares symmetrically at a width that's right for your ski, slide it toward the tip/tail until it sticks, eyeball it square, mark the center at tip and tail, connect them with a straight edge. Very quick, hard to mess up.

    Edit: Can't remember where I've found it, but I know it's not original.

    Nice mount. I don't think I've ever seen the OutlawX match a topsheet better.
    You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 2 photos.
    Last edited by Pherick; 2 March 2023, 08:49 AM.


    • #3
      Pherick, SlideWright created some similar centering gizmos, such as this one.

      I agree re Outlaw and topsheets. Well done.


      • #4
        Well, as they say, if you want to learn how to do something right, tell everyone how to do it wrong 😉. That doubled up combination square is genius.
        Last edited by kilowati; 2 March 2023, 08:28 AM.


        • #5
          Originally posted by dschane View Post

          I agree re Outlaw and topsheets. Well done.
          +1. Though I'm biased - I ski the OutlawX on older, oranger version of the Origin 96. Hope you enjoy yours as much as I do (and if not, at least it looks good).

          PS - back on topic, thanks for the mounting tips. Center line is everything.


          • #6
            Originally posted by dschane View Post
            Pherick, SlideWright created some similar centering gizmos, such as this one.

            I agree re Outlaw and topsheets. Well done.
            That's nice. Certainly easier to read. One thing I like about the metal ruler for those squares is that the increments are milled out of the ruler face. An extra-fine ballpoint pen slides right down them. So you can mark pretty close to exactly. Otherwise the last step is hoping you don't flub the mark by hand. The channel for the pen tip makes that near impossible.

            At this point I've bought a 22D jig with my time, having mounted 6+ pairs of skis with this method. Same for Rottefella. And a few NNN... Alpine bindings... I should think about that...


            • #7
              Nice work Pherick.

              This all got me thinking - I did decide to by the 22D jig years ago and it's paying off for sure. But I could use it as the centre line finder with its centre lines. Although perhaps there is more room for error there if the pen isn't tight, or straight.


              • #8
                Yeah, the Jig-A-rex has simplified life a lot. The Robo jig that 22D designed or helped design seems amazing. But, it's expensive, and several of us have a lot of capital invested in Jigarex and its plates.


                • #9
                  I love the money hole! Let's feed it a Jigarex!

                  EDIT: I guess the question is 22D or wait on whatever Voile needs?

                  Then use the saved time to collect cans by the interstate.​


                  • #10
                    Even with a jig I still mark center line.


                    • #11
                      ..... and use a table top drill press because my fingers/wrists/arms/shoulders/........ aren't as strong as they used to be.


                      • #12
                        Have only one such square, but even with 2 I'd stick to the Dostie way, which got me to leave my own brilliant method. Find spots 90 across the ski. From each spot use the 45 to draw a 45. Intersection is exact middle. Euclid sez. Do in several places and join, averaging thickness of your fine point marker.
                        nee, Whiteout