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I recently gathered the courage to drill into perfectly good skis. In doing so, I picked up a few tips along the way that I thought I would pass along to anyone considering mounting bindings for the first time. Outlaw X's in this case, though the principles will work for any binding.
My best tip is borrowed from YouTuber Tom M who uses a 'center ruler' to scribe a center line down the ski, to which you can align the binding template. Seems more accurate than using the parallel lines on the side of the template.
You can print your own center ruler here:
Simply get the numbers to match on each metal edge of the ski (lifting the ski onto blocks helps here) and mark the 0. Mark 3 or 4 0's through the binding area and then link them together with a straight edge to construct a center line.
Align the 22 Designs plastic template (or print your own paper) with the factory mount line at your boot's BSL and the center line you just drew.
Somewhat confusingly, 22D marked BSL's in cm's. This makes them look like Mondo, but they're not. Use the BSL printed on your boot shell (310 in this case).
Adjust fore or aft to stay greater than ¼" from any existing holes (that you've nicely plugged).
Punch the front 6 holes (don't do the rear holes yet) with a center punch, or a hammer and nail.
Heel Riser Holes: Divide your BSL by 2 (310 / 2 = 155 mm for me). Mark that back from the mount line.
Now realign the template's back line to that new line, mark and punch your heel riser holes. There are special rules for shorter boots. Check 22D instructions, and check binding/riser clearance before you drill.
Drill the holes with a stepped ski-specific drill bit if you want to save yourself some stress. Tognar is a good source:
They often print the recommended bit size on the ski. It's usually 3.6mm by 9 for wood-cored skis, or 4.1mm for skis with metal in them.
Of course you can put a piece of tape on a regular drill bit to keep from drilling through the ski, but I prefer these.
Clean up any rough hole edges with a utility knife.
I had better an easier time driving the mounting screws after I started using a 12AB tap to start the holes.
Pick up the tap handle to go with it.
Fill the holes to the top with the glue of your choice. Waterproof wood glue for me.
Drive in the screws with a Pozi Number 3 and you're done!
My best tip is borrowed from YouTuber Tom M who uses a 'center ruler' to scribe a center line down the ski, to which you can align the binding template. Seems more accurate than using the parallel lines on the side of the template.
You can print your own center ruler here:
Simply get the numbers to match on each metal edge of the ski (lifting the ski onto blocks helps here) and mark the 0. Mark 3 or 4 0's through the binding area and then link them together with a straight edge to construct a center line.
Align the 22 Designs plastic template (or print your own paper) with the factory mount line at your boot's BSL and the center line you just drew.
Somewhat confusingly, 22D marked BSL's in cm's. This makes them look like Mondo, but they're not. Use the BSL printed on your boot shell (310 in this case).
Adjust fore or aft to stay greater than ¼" from any existing holes (that you've nicely plugged).
Punch the front 6 holes (don't do the rear holes yet) with a center punch, or a hammer and nail.
Heel Riser Holes: Divide your BSL by 2 (310 / 2 = 155 mm for me). Mark that back from the mount line.
Now realign the template's back line to that new line, mark and punch your heel riser holes. There are special rules for shorter boots. Check 22D instructions, and check binding/riser clearance before you drill.
Drill the holes with a stepped ski-specific drill bit if you want to save yourself some stress. Tognar is a good source:
They often print the recommended bit size on the ski. It's usually 3.6mm by 9 for wood-cored skis, or 4.1mm for skis with metal in them.
Of course you can put a piece of tape on a regular drill bit to keep from drilling through the ski, but I prefer these.
Clean up any rough hole edges with a utility knife.
I had better an easier time driving the mounting screws after I started using a 12AB tap to start the holes.
Pick up the tap handle to go with it.
Fill the holes to the top with the glue of your choice. Waterproof wood glue for me.
Drive in the screws with a Pozi Number 3 and you're done!
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