Burgers & Fries -Lynx Mod

[dschane]

Finding a soft flexible plastic that doesn't break after numerous flexing will be ideal. Maybe a car mud flap might be the golden ticket?

You need the carbon deluxe, triple impregnated, deep fry edition.

[xmatt]

Finding a soft flexible plastic that doesn't break after numerous flexing will be ideal. Maybe a car mud flap might be the golden ticket?

What about a piece of stiff leather? Old, proven technology.

[cesare]

Or a plastic notebook cover?

I can also imagine if it is too soft, it might allow the base plate to flex too much causing it to crack? I don't know, just my imagination.

[telenerd]

Round 2. Found these at Grocery store on sale $4.95. Burger/Flap Jack Flippers. Seems tough and flexible. Plus no holes where ice can build up unlike my first take.

I think I’m on to something.

[telenerd]

What about a piece of stiff leather? Old, proven technology.

Good idea. That may work well too. See if you can gather up some material and add to the thread and test.

[telenerd]

Flap Jack version 2.0. “Flexible Control”.

So far way better plastic than the Version 1.0. Flex feels great and no holes for ice and snow build up!

[telenerd]

Took the Burger mod for a spin today on a super low angle run to get a feel for things and not over work the main plates. Skied very well but a bit too soft initially, I was also afraid to crank it on turns with fear of cracking the main plates. Need a little bit stiffer plastic that won’t break the main plates when flexing, then things should be good. Maybe a tapered plastic that is thick at the strap then gets thinner as it goes to the cam.

One thing I did noticed is the slic pin made a more dramatic feel in activity with the burger mod then stock. I even played with spacers and those made a big difference too. Offering a different material flex plate will be key for folks wanting a more neutral feel.

Not a bad test just to see how things worked!

[jasonq]

all good ideas. i'll toss mine into the mix.

i'd look at replacing the sub plate with multiple thinner sub plates. 2 or 3. shortest on the top, getting longer with each one, ending at something shorter than the stock sub plate. you should be able to get something much softer than the stock sub plate, but still durable enough and won't take a set.

i think the stock sub plate is 2.5mm thick, so maybe a 1mm on top then a 1.5mm below it. Or a 0.5mm, 1mm, 1mm triple combo. A little bit of UHMW tape for a sliding surface like the stock plate would be good. some silicon grease also good.

cheap enough to try:
https://www.amazon.com/CoCocina-200x...22&sr=8-7&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Epoxy-Fibergl...22&sr=8-2&th=1

just the first things i came across. likely anything you get off amazon will be softer than the stock plates because chances are anything you buy will be a 90 degree weave instead of the uni-directional glass in the stock plates. in this case, that's good.

[telenerd]

all good ideas. i'll toss mine into the mix.

i'd look at replacing the sub plate with multiple thinner sub plates. 2 or 3. shortest on the top, getting longer with each one, ending at something shorter than the stock sub plate. you should be able to get something much softer than the stock sub plate, but still durable enough and won't take a set.

i think the stock sub plate is 2.5mm thick, so maybe a 1mm on top then a 1.5mm below it. Or a 0.5mm, 1mm, 1mm triple combo. A little bit of UHMW tape for a sliding surface like the stock plate would be good. some silicon grease also good.

cheap enough to try:
https://www.amazon.com/CoCocina-200x...22&sr=8-7&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Epoxy-Fibergl...22&sr=8-2&th=1

just the first things i came across. likely anything you get off amazon will be softer than the stock plates because chances are anything you buy will be a 90 degree weave instead of the uni-directional glass in the stock plates. in this case, that's good.

Good idea. A step above the Burger Mod and less cave man!

The only concern Id have is how far the carbon can flex before snapping. Most carbon I’ve messed with does not flex and just snaps. Maybe the thinner carbon would have some give to it.

[jasonq]

The only concern Id have is how far the carbon can flex before snapping. Most carbon I’ve messed with does not flex and just snaps. Maybe the thinner carbon would have some give to it.

yeah, don't use carbon. the links i gave were for fiberglass sheet.

ideally, a g10 glass, but FR4 is supposed to be the flame retardant version, but i haven't looked to see if it gives up anything over G10 in trade for being self extinguishing. I suppose there are times where it might be a good thing to have a self extinguishing binding, but you skis is probably toast anyway. you should just lean the skis up farther from the wood stove.

i only did one fast search, only on amazon, mostly looking to see what thicknesses was easily available.

[telenerd]

yeah, don't use carbon. the links i gave were for fiberglass sheet.

ideally, a g10 glass, but FR4 is supposed to be the flame retardant version, but i haven't looked to see if it gives up anything over G10 in trade for being self extinguishing. I suppose there are times where it might be a good thing to have a self extinguishing binding, but you skis is probably toast anyway. you should just lean the skis up farther from the wood stove.

i only did one fast search, only on amazon, mostly looking to see what thicknesses was easily available.

Opps didn’t read the fine print. I guess it’s fiber glass. How bout you purchase some and cut it and give it a go and post up the results? Looks fairly cheap to give it a try.

Corn season is now under way so plenty of time to test.

[Tele 'til You're Smelly]

Ah, the old Pearl Milling Co. treatment

[jasonq]

How bout you purchase some and cut it and give it a go and post up the results?

i don't have any lynx bindings. just a few random spare parts from them.