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Temporary mounting glue or none?

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  • Temporary mounting glue or none?

    Waiting for ski brakes but need to mount my new bindings (Meidjo tele bindings) so I can use them in the meantime on a 3-day hut trip. Think I'm ok skipping the glue until I can put the brakes on after the trip, or should I use a temporary screw glue? I know the upside-down drill bit trick for undoing epoxy, but that seems like maybe overkill in this scenario (I will use epoxy for the permanent mount once I get the brakes). Any thoughts appreciated-
    Reluctant enthusiast, part-time crusader, half-hearted fanatic

  • #2
    If you're going to remount them after 3 days, mount just with wood glue, no question. tbh, I had always mounted with epoxy, and I had also seen shop mounted bindings with epoxy that were a pain to get screws out. Recently I did a very trivial remounting job on some Meidjos (just swapping out heels to upgrade them) and the shop had mounted them with wood glue. Wow, it was super easy to get screws out, it took me more time to find my screwdriver than it did to do the mounting. And after >100 days, the mount is still totally solid and the screws that I unscrewed looked literally brand new. I'm sure I am saying nothing new here to many people, but this really converted me to the idea of using wood glue, though perhaps I would keep using epoxy for the screws that bear the upwards force of the springs.

    And another thought, do you really want brakes for a backcountry binding? I'm a big fan of the B&D leashes. They probably weigh less than brakes, they are pretty convenient because you can leave them on all day unless you are switching to bootpacking (and you can leave them on for very short bootpacks) and they might save you from losing your ski after a release in powder or accidentally dropping it down steep firm snow.
    Last edited by xmatt; 4 April 2022, 09:50 AM.

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    • #3
      I've used Gorilla Glue for years, strong but removable, still epoxy for inserts.

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      • #4
        2nd on the wood glue.

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        • #5
          Ditto for wood glue on a temporary mount. Although I concur on the use of epoxy for permanence I'm finding Gorilla glue is damn strong for wood screws. Epoxy for sure on inserts.

          ain't no turn like tele!

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          • #6
            If you use epoxy, backing the screws out a half turn before they are set and then tightening them again will make them easy to remove without sacrificing any strength or waterproofness.

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            • #7
              If epoxy is being stubborn, heat yer screwdriver tip with a blowtorch for a few moments, hold the screwdriver tip on the willful screw for a few more moments, then twist away. Works like a charm. The other suggestions here are excellent from a ski tech's perspective.

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              • #8
                I’d use a poly glue like gorilla glue. The waterproof aspect is what you’re looking for to keep moisture out of the wood core. Regular Titebond/ pva glue is not waterproof but Titebond 3 is so that’ll work as well. Poly glue is easier to release using the heat from a soldering iron on the head of the screw if needed. I set all my inserts with epoxy and have removed plenty with the soldering iron but it’s more tenacious than poly glue.
                Function in disaster, finish in style.

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                • #9
                  xmatt wrote,
                  And another thought, do you really want brakes for a backcountry binding? I'm a big fan of the B&D leashes. They probably weigh less than brakes, they are pretty convenient because you can leave them on all day unless you are switching to bootpacking (and you can leave them on for very short bootpacks) and they might save you from losing your ski after a release in powder or accidentally dropping it down steep firm snow.
                  B&D leashes also come with break-away connectors. You can use one with (I think) a 40 lb load limit or 60 lb limit.
                  B&D leashes on my Scott SG 105s. I wrap them pretty high on my leg, so I can release coils, if I stuff a ski into deep snow.
                  Click image for larger version  Name:	Resized_20220119_125306.jpg Views:	2 Size:	712.0 KB ID:	115701

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by chamonix View Post

                    B&D leashes also come with break-away connectors. You can use one with (I think) a 40 lb load limit or 60 lb limit.
                    B&D leashes on my Scott SG 105s. I wrap them pretty high on my leg, so I can release coils, if I stuff a ski into deep snow.
                    Click image for larger version Name:	Resized_20220119_125306.jpg Views:	2 Size:	712.0 KB ID:	115701
                    The first pair of B&D leashes I got, I wrapped on my leg. That works great, but it wound up stretching them out a bit so now I have to keep wrapping them. On my second pair of leashes, on a different pair of skis, I started attaching it to the boot without wrapping. I just tied a little loop of cord on the top back of my boot and clipped to that. That seems to keep enough tension on them that they don't get tangled, but also doesn't stretch them. This way, I have more length available when I want it.

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                    • #11
                      Looks like there are lots of answers here. Many ways to go about it. But this is the best way

                      Gorilla Glue. Easy to remove the screws after, it is waterproof.

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                      • #12
                        Thanks all, went with wood glue for the temporary mounts, will epoxy once my Meidjo brakes get out of what I can only assume is customs purgatory. I like brakes, ymmv

                        Edited to add: did I mount with glue yesterday, and today, the day before my trip, the brakes finally came? Yes
                        Last edited by Tele 'til You're Smelly; 7 April 2022, 02:46 PM.
                        Reluctant enthusiast, part-time crusader, half-hearted fanatic

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