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Multiple failed attempts to make a 22 Designs jig

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  • #16
    Very nice, congratulations on your purchase! But... looks like the carpenter's rule (and skill) may still apply here? Or do the boots fit between the posts, boot centre on ski centre?

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    • #17
      There is a notch on each of the rails to mark the boot center. The toe and heel plates are on a track that keeps them equidistant from the center. However, it is calibrated for the Axl, so I would align the boot center notches 8 mm aft of the boot center on the ski. And I would use the measurement off the template on the 22 Designs web site that indicates the distance between the rear-most toe hole and the front-most heel hole to set the distance. Then I would tape the plate to the rails and place it on the ski, again with the notches 8 mm behind the boot center line on the ski. Of course I will double check my assumptions but I think that will give me the correct mount and the correct placement of the heel piece. If anyone has any feedback on that I welcome hearing it. I always want to get a reality check on my understanding if possible.

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      • #18
        Nice purchase. I have the same and share with a 3 folks, so we have a collection of plates and that just makes life simpler and earns me a few beers this time of year.

        Yes, you're correct re heels and bindings and the -8mm. So, for Outlaw and Lynx, put some masking tape on the ski, draw a line where the mfre recommends boot center, and then mark another line that's +8mm forward from there. Then, I just line the Jigarex up with the +8mm line. I scribbled that on the plate itself as I have the memory of a shoe. Your heels will be correct.

        The jig is great but imperfect. In particular, it doesn't clamp well to skis. So, I personally set in on the ski, line it up, use SVST's center punch to mark my holes, remove the jig, and hand drill.

        It cuts a fair amount of time. And for bindings for which you have no plates, you can use the jig to mark your center line. Run some masking tape along the ski, place the 22D heel in the jig, clamp the jig to the ski, and then use hand pressure and the SVST center punch to make 3-4 marks along the masking tape. Now you can draw a line down the center of the ski and line up paper template.

        Originally posted by cesare View Post
        There is a notch on each of the rails to mark the boot center. The toe and heel plates are on a track that keeps them equidistant from the center. However, it is calibrated for the Axl, so I would align the boot center notches 8 mm aft of the boot center on the ski. And I would use the measurement off the template on the 22 Designs web site that indicates the distance between the rear-most toe hole and the front-most heel hole to set the distance. Then I would tape the plate to the rails and place it on the ski, again with the notches 8 mm behind the boot center line on the ski. Of course I will double check my assumptions but I think that will give me the correct mount and the correct placement of the heel piece. If anyone has any feedback on that I welcome hearing it. I always want to get a reality check on my understanding if possible.

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        • #19
          Wait... I wrote behind but you wrote forward and looking at it now it seems you are right. So I move the whole jig forward, not back? I must have spun my brain around thinking about it. The 22D template sure is confusing to this senior citizen. I just want to get it right because I will mount forward or aft of the recommended line at times depending on the ski and I don't want what I end up with to be 16 mm off in the wrong direction.
          Last edited by cesare; 20 November 2020, 04:41 AM.

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          • #20
            It's also not straight. Disappointed. It's only like this on one side with either plate so it's not one of the plates. It seems like the rails are bowed. If I put the heel plate on that side I'm not too worried but this is why I thought about taping the plate to the rail because of this play and angle. It's more than a mm over the 15 or so cm length of the plate. Again, no problem when it's the heel but I have no confidence in putting the toe plate on that side. I don't even need to mark it because when you put a plate on it it could not be more obvious. Oh well...

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            • #21
              OK now I am officially pissed. I removed the tension screw and found that there were scratches in several locations from the screw being over torqued and a severe dent that is why the plate will not sit straight. The other side has none of this damage. I don't even know who to complain to about it after it has already been shipped overseas. The manufacturer Jigarex? The vendor Binding Freedom? Or the drop shipper SVST? I guess I should have kept trying to build my own. It would surely have been no worse than this.

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              Last edited by cesare; 20 November 2020, 05:47 AM.

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              • #22
                Here is a clearer view of the damage, in better light I think.

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                • #23
                  If the bent part of the jig is metal, perhaps you can use a clamp to pull the bend out of the rail with a stiff straight edge. Clamp it up, pull the rail, check for straightness, repeat... until straight..
                  the fall line is your friend.... resistance is futile

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                  • #24
                    Bummer. I would contact the vendor that you gave your cash to.

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                    • #25
                      Dang Cesare that just sucks!

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                      • #26
                        Waking up early I find that there are people in the industry that will do right by their customers. Kyle at SVST is refunding the cost of the jigarex and the plates and suggests trying to bend it back. He says they inspect every unit that the send and there is no way it could have left their warehouse like that so it must have been damaged in shipping. He also said there is no way you can do that damage with the thumb screw so somebody must have really ****ed with it. I accept his offer and explanation. Kyle at SVST, you ROCK!

                        Yes, tele.skier, it is anodized, hardened steel. I am not sure I can bend it back, but I am going to try. I just need to get a millimeter back in terms of straightening the plate. I'm not sure how I am going to pull it out. I don't even think I can put enough leverage on it with a screwdriver. This may require a trip to Super Viva Home to find a small crowbar. I think I have seen one there.
                        Last edited by cesare; 20 November 2020, 03:19 PM.

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                        • #27
                          chez, The shipper wanted to express to you that he uses the utmost care in handling your package and all packages...

                          Last edited by tele.skier; 20 November 2020, 03:28 PM.
                          the fall line is your friend.... resistance is futile

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                          • #28
                            Bwaaaaa... for what it's worth, whoever did this went to great lengths to disguise that the box had even been opened. The bubble wrap around the frame was intact and thick. The cardboard inserts that were part of the packing are sitting on my desk completely undamaged and I am planning on using them to store something (yes, I am a hoarder). The damage had to have been done using a hammer directly on the rail or a large wrench to over torque the screw in at least five locations on the slot. I guess I have to suspect Japanese customs because where else would it have been opened in transit and repackaged in such a way as to disguise that it had been tampered with?

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                            • #29
                              Japanese customs is well known to be against telemarking. I read it on the internet.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by cesare View Post
                                Wait... I wrote behind but you wrote forward and looking at it now it seems you are right. So I move the whole jig forward, not back? I must have spun my brain around thinking about it. The 22D template sure is confusing to this senior citizen. I just want to get it right because I will mount forward or aft of the recommended line at times depending on the ski and I don't want what I end up with to be 16 mm off in the wrong direction.
                                Well, there are a lot of issues going on since you wrote this, but . . .

                                Glad SVST is making this right.

                                As for the mount location, my mistake . . . writing late. 22D says "Axls put your boot's pin line 5/16" (8mm) further back than the Outlaw X, Lynx", and I read that to mean that if you had Axls on your ski, lined up with boot center, and then you changed bindings and used the same holes for Lynx, your boot would be 8mm forward of the boot center line. So, to compensate for that, I mark the boot center line and then a second line that's -8mm from there. That will put my boot center in my Lynx/Outlaw binding on the ski's boot center line. And I checked my jigarex plate and that's what I scribbled. So, thanks for catching that, even if it's irrelevant for you.

                                If SVST is going to refund the jig, maybe give it one more try in the mail?

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