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Meidjo 3 - how does it work?

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  • Meidjo 3 - how does it work?

    I see Meidjo 3.0 has been announced. I like the idea of a step in with the 'stub axle' bar thingy. But how do you push it back for touring now?

  • #2
    The smart-ass in me says "You don't pull the springbox back, you just use a low heel riser."

    The real answer is that the red stick still exists, solely for the purpose of pushing the springbox aft for locking into tour mode.

    It sure seems like the 3.0 is the best duckbutt-grabbin' tele binding that's been made so far. It's my opinion, though, that there are two things keeping it from being a perfect, mature design: the need to use the red stick, and snow clumping in the claw. Eliminate the red stick and find a way for snow to pass thru the claw, and it'll be perfect.

    jtb Designed some pretty slick spacers to hold the springbox back, but I can't find the thread.

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    • #3
      Yep, you still use the red stick for touring. You can remove it and the wire clip if you don't tour. If you want to remove all that stuff and fill the spring box cavity but retain the ability to tour, I did post a solution here:

      https://www.backcountrytalk.com/foru...034#post103034

      I've 3d printed the parts (and made them available on Shapeways). However, I haven't had a chance to use them on the snow yet, only carpet tested. My gut tells me the fiddle factor will be only slightly better, but the snow packing should be much improved. The spring box is completely flat on the bottom, interfacing with a completely flat ski, and both coated with anti-ice tape.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by bobbytooslow View Post
        It's my opinion, though, that there are two things keeping it from being a perfect, mature design: the need to use the red stick, and snow clumping in the claw. Eliminate the red shifter stick and find a way for snow to pass thru the claw, and it'll be perfect.
        I can live with the red stick and the snow building up in the claw (usually easy to clear out, but does require maintenance when shifting to turn mode), but boot jack when turning is still the bigger flaw IMO.

        Of course, the cavities created by the shifter stick (v3 is black) make the boot jack more likely, so the best solution would get rid of the blk/red stick AND still allows a flat touring mode. As the smart ass twist in your response confirms, not having flat ain't funny. ;-)
        Last edited by Dostie; 8 October 2020, 06:24 PM.

        ain't no turn like tele!

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        • #5
          Dostie You're right, boot jack isn't acceptable either, and it is enabled/exacerbated by the presence of the red/black stick. Having everything smooth under there would sure be nice.

          The low heel riser solution is terrain- and boot-dependent. If you never ski long flats and you have boots with great rearward ROM -- my situation -- it works fine. I realize this isn't a viable solution for many users (or for Pierre).

          The best solution I can think of would be a cover for the claw opening (a buttplug?) that is attached to the heelpad with some linkage. The plug would be put into place and then the linkage cammed down to pull the plug (and the spring box) aft. Any weight would be offset by subtraction of the stick, plate, wire, and clumped snow. It's on my list of projects.

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          • #6
            If anyone else is interested in a flat-bottomed spring box, this is the plug to fill the gap left by the touring stick. It's held in place by the same metal clips you slide back to remove the stick.

            https://www.shapeways.com/product/MS...pring-box-plug

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            • #7
              Is the boot jack/snow buildup a minor inconvenience or a major pain?

              taking the Meidjo plunge this winter so new to the scene.

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              • #8
                I would say it depends if you care more about downhill or uphill performance. For downhill, the Meidjo is amazing. I don't think you'd be disappointed. Snow packing has not been a problem for me, but I've taken lots of precautions. For uphill, Meidjo is a compromise, but worth it to me for the downhill.

                If you're doing 100% backcountry with lots of climbing and mode changes, maybe a TTS setup would be better. But if you're going down more than up, get the Meidjo and put anti-ice (UHMW) tape on everything. And maybe carry a spare spring box in case the plastic breaks -- supposedly improved on the 3.0.

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                • #9
                  I ski in the PNW so definitely have to deal with icing. Meidjo icing can be a pain, but I love the binding. I like my TTS also because it works with my F1s and mode changes are so easy, and I like my Freeride because it's on my beater skis and it's convenient. But Meidjo is my favorite. So, tl;dr: go get it. For more, here goes:

                  Uphill, I really haven't had much issue. I had one day where it popped out of tour mode a couple times, but lightly sanding the part holding the stub axle as Dostie suggested fixed that; it's in some article somewhere. I had one or two days with some serious icing in the "claw" (I'll use that term for Meidjo too, the part of the binding that attaches to the duckbutt) which required picking ice out. But overall uphill has been little issue. I've certainly seen people on all kinds of other setups from AT to splitboard having at least as big issues. Perhaps partly I don't tend to tour in the real glop, though; corn or good powder, but I mostly avoid that transitional stuff. I would prefer easier mode changes though, especially I would like to able to change modes without removing skis.

                  AI tape everywhere is an absolute necessity, including all surfaces that contact the boot. That especially includes the very thin vertical surface at the back of the claw on the inside. I had some snow build up issues inside the claw early on that caused a couple scary pre-releases. Once I AI taped there, that was completely resolved and there is no sign of build up there and no pre-releases even though I ski unlocked.

                  Downhill, in bad conditions, I do sometimes deal with boot jack. Most of the time it is no issue. On bad inbounds days, halfway down Alpental I have to pause, reach a hand down under the bottom of each binding and brush it off, then stomp it once or twice. Yes, I do mean on real bad days I might do that almost every run. If you don't ever want to pause skiing here, you've got better endurance than I do. If you live in CO or NM or something, I don't think it will happen anywhere near as often. I deal with it.

                  No breakage. I've got a lot of days on them. Mine are 2.0 or 2.1, I forget.
                  Last edited by xmatt; 9 October 2020, 11:01 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Appreciate the thoughtful answers.

                    Honestly, I'd be using the setup mostly for resort skinning in CO for fitness/training, then once springs hits, for backcountry missions. Most of what we do is one big push in the morning for one long descent, sometimes sknning in a ways to camp/hut. Definitely some days where we change modes more than that. We're booting up stuff a decent amount as well.

                    I looked at TTS in depth, but opted for releasability and alpine heel.

                    JTB - does your plug thus alleviate the boot jack/snowpack issues? It's starting to seem more like one needs to take at least some precaution here.

                    Thanks

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                    • #11
                      JackO - I can't say for sure, I just made it this summer. Haven't had a chance to try it yet. However, it does replace the red/black stick, which means you lose tour mode. I have another solution for that, but again, I've only carpet-tested it.

                      If I were you, I'd get the binding, anti-ice tape the surfaces, and try it out. By then, either one of the solutions proposed here will be proven, or you'll find it's not a big problem for you.

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                      • #12
                        JackO, for your use case it's really not going to be an issue. AI tape it properly, and I'll bet you hardly notice it, if at all.

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                        • #13
                          So, I have first gen meidjo with a few upgrades - which frames this comment.

                          I saw V3 and was pretty tempted to try it. Looks very nice. But I have Lynx 1 and 2. Meidjo (the one I had) was more adjustable than Lynx and had a ‘slightly’ better tele feel....maybe....at a certain point in the genuflection. Maybe not. I like Lynx better on the deck and at initiation.

                          BUT.... Lynx is bomber. Just look at the thing. Simple. 22D are excellent with customer service too! Sure, no real release but I bet these bindings release pretty much the same in real life.

                          my last day on meidjo I almost came home and burned them. Cat skiiing. Wet snow, but deep. Having to stop several times a run to clear the boot jack (again, an old version - but I had made many mods and AI tape to improve it).

                          I hope you try meidjo 3 and report back, but my money is still on Lynx

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                          • #14
                            I am with Bobby, unless you have a long flat to do, you can just use the heel riser and leave the spring box loose. I used it this way in the Telemark Titan Mountain Race, saved time and hassle.
                            A lower riser would be better, probably not that difficult to sort out.
                            For long flats, the widget for holding back the spring box seems a good option. Wondering if a simple loose piece of slotted tube to opt in place would work.
                            Then remove the red thingy and fill the box.
                            Something else that should help is raising the toe piece and spring box off the ski to give more clearance.

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                            • #15
                              Shhhh telemarkmark don't use the R word (racing) around here!

                              Maybe this would work to replace the red stick: A hook attached to the base of the heelpad that could be flicked forward or aft. When you press the duckbutt down on the claw-top ramps (to slide the springbox aft), that hook grabs a bar on the spring box and holds it back so your boot can go all the way down when touring.

                              Or, as jasonq has suggested, put the toepiece on a riser so that the springbox can dangle below horizontal when touring, then an equal riser can be slid/rotated into place under the rear of the spring box to allow you to step in like normal.

                              However it's accomplished, it seems like folks are in pretty solid agreement that the red stick (and associated cavities) are the things keeping the 3.0 from being a fully mature design.

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