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Applying DPS Phantom 2.0 to fish-scaled skis

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  • Applying DPS Phantom 2.0 to fish-scaled skis

    I wasn’t able to find this anywhere else on the web, so here goes. This is a step-by-step guide to applying DPS Phantom 2.0, with a few special steps from my experience applying to Voile BC skis with the traction pattern base. Those steps are highlighted with the scaly fish icon: 🐟. I also note a few things I did differently from the official instructions from DPS.

    If you’re not already familiar with this wax-replacement base treatment, check out the FAQ here: and Dostie's application instruction video here:

    DPS Phantom 2.0 works on sintered PTEX bases, which is used on downhill skis and snowboards. This may not work on some cross-country ski bases made of extruded PTEX, HDPE, or other materials. It should work on Voile BC skis or similar downhill skis with PTEX traction bases.

    🐟 A DPS employee says Phantom should work on fish scales, though I haven’t found evidence of anyone actually doing it:

    The box comes with almost everything you need, but you'll need to supply your own standard ski tuning tools: base flattener, structure tool, edge tuner, etc.

    🐟 For cleaning Phantom out of the scales, a high-speed drill and a drill-mounted nylon brush were indispensable. The brush should be softer than a base structure brush. I used this (the yellow brush):


    Start with a new ski that has never seen wax, or a fresh stone grind.

    🐟 Since I don’t know how to stone grind fish scales, I would only apply Phantom to new, never-waxed traction bases.

    Before applying, add base structure. I used the Ski Visions base flattener and structure tool:

    🐟 Obviously, you don’t want to flatten your scales. I flattened and structured the tip and tail, feathering the stone where the flat base meets the scales to avoid grinding them down.

    Clean base with base cleaner, dry, then with soap and water, and dry. Mount the skis in a vice with the base up.

    Cover the work area under your ski with rags to catch any extra Phantom liquid. Having said that, if you’re dripping Phantom off of the ski, you’re applying too much at once.

    Part A

    Knead the packet until it has a uniform consistency. Cut the packet at the corner and dribble the liquid onto the base. Don’t put too much on at once; you can apply another layer before curing. Part A dries quickly, so I recommend working it into the ski one section at a time (tip, then scales, then tail). You don't want to dribble a line down the whole ski and have it all dry in the middle by the time you get to the tail.

    To work part A into the ski, smear it around until it covers about 3/4 of the width, then rub in circles to extend the liquid to the edges. Rub it in until the liquid no longer beads up. When beads remain after sitting for several minutes, the base is saturated and it’s time to cure.

    🐟 No special steps are needed for the scales, except to take a bit longer to rub in the liquid. I made several passes of circular motion as well as tail to tip and tip to tail.

    DPS says to wipe the excess off the ski before curing, but I don’t think this is necessary. Some may continue to penetrate the base as it cures, and what’s left is very easy to remove.

    Cure part A in direct sunlight for at least an hour. Curing longer doesn’t hurt; I did an hour an a half.


    After curing, the base should have a white, chalky appearance. The cured Phantom is soft and easy to remove. First, use the soft nylon brush at the highest drill speed and brush from tip to tail.

    🐟 When cleaning the scales, brush tip to tail, tail to tip, and side to side to make sure you get excess Phantom out of all of the scales. I was able to remove it all with the nylon brush, but if any remains stuck in a scale, you can chip it away with your fingernail.

    Then use the stiff nylon brush that comes in the kit, or a stiff nylon rotobrush or structure brush, to remove more dried Phantom.

    🐟 I used the stiff brush on the tips and tails, but not on the scales. Any material harsh enough to add base structure could damage the scales.

    Wipe with a paper towel until it no longer picks up additional residue.

    Part B

    Applying part B is very similar to part A, except that it doesn’t dry as quickly and takes longer to penetrate. I applied one layer, waited 10 minutes, and then applied another layer. Even after letting it soak in for 20 minutes, I still noticed that more was absorbed into the base while curing.

    Again, DPS says to wipe off the excess, but I would leave it on to maximize penetration. Excess part B is also very easy to remove after it cures.

    Cure part B in direct sunlight for at least an hour. Curing longer doesn’t hurt; I did an hour an a half.


    Cleaning part B is very similar to part A. After using the soft and hard nylon brushes, use a cork to remove additional dried residue from the tips and tails. I then tuned my edges, which also removes any Phantom that got onto the edge during application. Finally, I cleaned with a wet rag to remove all remaining dust, then dried.

    Ski In

    DPS says to “ski in” the Phantom before applying skins to avoid contaminating the skins. This means some additional Phantom residue will come off due to friction with the snow.

    🐟 With traction bases, this goes double. Because it’s not possible to clean excess Phantom out of the scales as thoroughly as the tips and tails, more of it will flake off while skiing.


    🐟 Applying Phantom 2.0 to fish-scaled bases was not as tedious as I expected. The DPS rep recommends manually wiping the scales while the Phantom is still wet, but I think this is unnecessary. Dried Phantom is soft enough to remove with a nylon brush that doesn’t hurt the scales. Just make sure to have a high-speed drill available, or be prepared for a serious shoulder workout.

    I haven’t skied on it yet, so I can’t say for sure if glide wax is completely unnecessary. I’ll report back after a few days on the snow.
    Last edited by jtb; 21 September 2020, 12:45 PM.